This has to be one of the most surprising wines I have tasted in recent years. Back in 1997 I was attending the Annual Meeting of the Association of American Geographers held in Texas, and spent some time afterwards in Austin and visiting wineries in the Texas Hill Country – among them was Becker Vineyards, established a few years previously in 1992 by Richard and Bunny Becker. The first harvest was in 1995 and vintages are aged in either new French or American oak, and stored in the largest underground wine cellar in Texas. I remember being very surprised to find French varietals being cultivated in Texas, but also that the wines tasted surprisingly good.
The visit of two USAn friends on Friday, who had been forced to leave Egypt because of the ongoing political unrest there, and were on their way back to Houston, seemed an appropriate occasion to open this Texan Iconoclast. I would not normally choose to drink a 15 year old Cabernet Franc – suspecting that it would be well past its best. However, this wine was quite remarkable – and shows how ripe fruit and careful vinification can indeed produce surprising wines in very unusual circumstances. It retained a mid-red colour, and had much less browning at the edges than I had expected. The wine had the distinctive tobacco nose that I often associate with Cabernet Franc, but also retained a slightly woody aroma. The flavour was delicious, with soft tannins, good depth, and a richness that I had not anticipated – very different from many of the often light, dry Cabernet Franc wines from the Loire that I am more used to. The hot Texan summers had clearly ripened the fruit fully, giving the wine a richness and depth of body that was delicious, retaining a good balance and structure, with flavours of red fruit and tobacco.
So, if you happen to be out visiting the Texan countryside, enjoy the blue bonnets, take a detour up to Stonewall, sample the Becker wines, and put a bottle in your luggage for drinking a decade later! Thanks to Bill Fleming for persuading me to explore Austin’s music scene when I was there! I also look forward to returning to Guero‘s Taco Bar on a future visit – hope it is as good now as it was then!
Matt Gant and John Retsas have put together an exciting and eclectic range of wines under the label First Drop. As their site says, “First Drop is about passion. for life, fun and flavour!… a lifelong commitment to making kick arse booze… wines with flavour and texture, and a splash of funk… eclectic varieties from unique vineyards in the great regions of the Barossa, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale… wines to drink, not just appreciate…”
Typical of the lower priced wines in the range are an Arneis from the Adelaide Hill and a Barossa Shiraz both at around £10 a bottle. They have also particularly focused on Italian grape varieties, with a Nebbiolo Barbera and a Montepulciano from the Adelaide Hills. At the top end, their Cream Barossa Valley Shiraz sells for around £40 a bottle, with the Fat of the Land Ebenezar Shiraz going for £30 a bottle. These wines are now available in the UK from New School Wines in Melton Mowbray.
As James Halliday’s Australian Wine Companion 2011 notes, “This is a virtual winery, with no vineyards and no winery of its own. What it does have are two owners with immaculate credentials to produce a diverse range of wine of significantly higher quality than those of many more conventional operations … When Matt was working at St Hallett he won the Wine Society’s Young Winemaker of the Year Award ’04, and the Young Gun of Wine Award for First Drop in ’07. John Retsas has an equally impressive CV, working at St Hallett and Chain of Ponds and is now general manager of Schild Estate”.
In a previous life, Matt was a student at Royal Holloway, University of London, and it is great to see what he has now gone on to achieve!
Rarely do I use my blog to comment on a single wine, but exploring my ‘cellar’ over the Christmas period I came across a Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (1995) that I had bought there when I visited the winery a decade ago in February 1999. I had fully expected it to be past its best, but far from it, this was a rich, delicious wine that was well worth the wait!
The first surprise was the colour – still a surprisingly deep red, without anything like as much browning as I would have expected from a wine of this age. The nose was very clean, combining the typical blackcurrant aromas I had expected, but with a very distinctive scent of tobacco – a definite touch of Monte Cristo Cuban cigars!
The taste was smooth and complex, with the fine tannins having mellowed and softened – rich, soft blackcurrant fruit with a touch of cedar. Excellent depth of flavour – and full of subtle complexity that was difficult to describe.
The label had the following account of the wine: “The 1995 season was long and dry. The vines carried a small crop, with intensely powerful fruit flavours and fine grained tannins. The resultant red wines represent the ultimate in Margaret River wines. Intense cassis and concentrated mulberry are beautifully integrated with the toasty characters from 24 months maturation in French oak. Its intense amount of flavour, complexity and abundance of fine tannin augur extremely well for a long and rewarding life. While it will be drinking well from 1999 it will be at its sublime best in 12 years time and beyond”. [13.9% alc/vol].
So, if you can find a bottle, it is definitely worth buying – and drinking – although I guess there cannot be many bottles left of this really lovely wine!
The Sagrantino grape makes one of my favourite wines. It has strong tannins and tends to be low yielding, producing wines that are rich, dark, complex and long-lived. The classic area where it is grown is the small town of Montefalco in Umbria. The Sagrantino di Montefalco denomination has a maximum yield of 48 hl/ha and needs to be aged for 30 months before being sold, 12 of which must be in wood. Traditionally it has been used to make a wonderful passito style wine, made from partly dried grapes, but in recent years a dry secco has been introduced. The Sagrantino grape is also used in making a cheaper, lighter style of wine, dominated by the Sangiovese grape and usually blended with some Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, known as Rosso di Montefalco.
So, when I came across a small restaurant and wine bar called Sagrantino in Berlin in February this year, I was determined to return to see the extent to which it captured the essence of Umbria! Friday evening provided just the opportunity – and I was not disappointed. Tucked away on Behrenstrasse, just to the south of Unter den Linden and to the east of Friedrichstraße, Sagrantino is certainly worth getting to know. With several different Rosso di Montefalco wines, as well as the wonderful passito made by Arnaldo Caprai, it is a great place to chill out at the end of a day. Guess this might become one of my favourite places in Berlin!
Prague has to be one of my favourite cities in the world! At any season, and despite the masses of tourists, it is possible to escape and find some wonderful hidden away places. A short visit over the last couple of days provided the opportunity to explore some new restaurants that I would definitely recommend:
- La Provence (Štupartská 9) – in the style of a French brasserie, serving really excellent food. The salmon and steaks were delicious, but the desserts are indeed special: outstanding sorbet (beautifully presented) and fantastic Tarte tatin. This restaurant is really worth searching out – and beneath the ground floor brasserie, there is a romantic cushioned dining room in the downstairs cellar. An interesting wine list combines local Czech wines with fine French wines.
- Mount Steak (Josefská 1) – a very different kind of restaurant from La Provence, and definitely not for vegetarians! Mount Steak serves an enormously wide range of steaks from kangaroo to crocodile, but also has a good range of fulsome local Czech dishes with plenty of dumplings! The pork and chicken were really good value and delicious.
- Černý Slon (Týnská 1) – I first visited here almost a decade ago, and remember enjoying the traditional Czech food and wine. Little has changed since then! Hidden away near the Old Town Square, Černý Slon still serves good traditional Czech fare – the duck (with dumplings) is definitely worth trying as an example of old-style Czech cuisine.
- Breakfast at the Hilton Old Town (V Celnici 7) also has to be one of the best international hotel starts to the day – with excellent friendly service and really fresh food.
So, I have been hiding away in the Dalmatian coast of Croatia for the last week – and greatly enjoying the amazing coastal scenery!
Dubrovnik – despite the thousands of tourists – has to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. The opportunity to reconstruct it after the Serbian bombings of 1991-92, when an estimated 68% of the buildings in the old city were damaged, has been grasped imaginatively and effectively – the walk around the city walls is truly magnificent.
I was hoping to explore some of Croatia’s vineyards and wineries during our stay – but with prices of most of the ‘quality’ wines for sale being between$30 and $50 a bottle, I swiftly changed my mind! To be sure, it is indeed possible to find some reasonable wines at much less than this, but I cannot imagine who is willing to pay such prices – perhaps there are far too many over-rich tourists! If Croatia wants to establish itself as a reputable wine-making country, it needs to start making better value wines!
The food was also, sadly, a bit disapponting – tasty enough, but we did not manage to find any restaurants that really impressed. The best – and reasonably priced – was Konavoski Dvori near Gruda to the south of Dubrovnik. The restaurant is in a restored watermill, and on a hot August day the swift-flowing river that runs past the dining tables provides a very welcome cool breeze! Meat is cooked in an iron bell on charcoal – which keeps it succulent and moist. Other restaurants worth visiting include:
- Dubrovnik: Restaurant Orhan (Od Tabakarije 1) – situated at the foot of the Lovrjenac tower on the edge of a small bay some 200m away from the walls of the old city. Good seafood salads and grilled meats
- Trogir: Alka restaurant (Obrov 10) – serving customers in the centre of the old town for 40 years, this restaurant has particularly good tradtional Dalmatian beef pašticada (marinated in vinegar, lemon and rosemary, and then cooked wth carrots, cloves, muscat nuts, red wine and prosciutto)
Not everyone would automatically think of Mozambique for its culinary excellence – but for those who like fine seafood, Maputo’s restaurants are definitely worth exploring. Mozambique is a forgiving country, and despite the violent war of independence it still retains certain classic Portuguese traditions, not least the tendency to serve rice and chips with most main courses. It is also possible to find great Portuguese wines – definitely a step up from most of the South African ones available on the wine lists. Here are just a few of my favourite places to eat in Maputo:
- Costa do Sol – on the coast to the north of Maputo – serves fantastic fresh seafood in an art deco atmosphere. The vinhos verdes go down well with the lobster and prawns!
- Restaurante Escorpião (Recinto da Feira Popular – Maputo. Tel. 21302180. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org) – serves typical ‘Portuguese’ cuisine – and has one of the best collections of Portugese wine outside Portugal (try the Borba with one of the meat dishes).
- Maputo Waterfront restaurante (Av 10 Novembro 74,http://www.paginasamarelas.co.mz/pag/2226032468_PAG_A.html) – serves excellent seafood and meat dishes – try one of the combination dishes, such as chicken and seafood. As its name suggests, it is right on the waterfront
- Restaurante 1908 (Av. Eduardo Mondlane,946 – Maputo. Tel. 21424834.) – a sophisticated restaurant in the centre of Maputo, serving Mozambican and Italian food. As its name suggests it is in a building constructed in 1908!
Continuing my periodic restaurant commentaries, last week in Brussels provided a great opportunity to listen to advice from friends who live there, and explore hidden away restaurants. While I am tempted to keep these to myself, I enjoyed them so much that I thought I would share them here in the hope that these excellent restaurants will benefit from additional business. Just don’t be there when I am!
- La Quincaillerie – Rue du Page 45, B-1050 Brussels. As one of the first restaurants to set up in the trendy Chatelain neighbourhood, La Quincaillerie stands out among the many fashion boutiques and purveyors of upmarket knick-knacks. It has an excellent wine list, and particularly good seafood and chicken; I really enjoyed the Tartare de boeuf au parmesan et à la roquette. To drink, I would recommend the 2005 Gewürztraminer from Louis Sipp à Ribeauvillé in Alsace
- La Canne en Ville – Rue de la Réforme 22, B-1050 Brussels. Exceptional! Try the Duo de coquilles Saint Jacques rôties et filet de sole farci à la mousseline d’écrevisses, beurre fouetté au citron. And to drink, be adventurous and taste the Bourgogne rosé Marsannay Regis Bouvier 2005.
In late November or early December every year, many of the world’s leading figures in e-learning make their way to Berlin for Online Educa. This (14th) year was no exception – as ever, those left on the dance floor early on Friday morning somehow recovered enough to participate enthusiastically later in the day!!!
Members of the ICT4D Collective were involved in two main activities:
- sessions on technology supported learning in the UN system, and the launching of UNeLearn – led by UNEP
- workshop on OER convened with GTZ
… and then there were the cocktails ….